Types of waves that you get?
Waves are mostly generated by the wind that blows over the surface of the ocean, this creates the waves that we see most of the time. Waves don’t transport water necessary, waves only moves energy forwards and backwards. Some waves are much more powerful, the depth of the wave and the pull of the current makes it stronger. Do not underestimate small waves, some small waves are very powerful, mostly because the undertow of the wave is so strong that it creates a very small wave but with 2x the power. Learn more about these Waves, Tides and Currents in a course.
Some waves are called square waves, these are very powerful and dangerous. Square waves are a common phenomenon that happens close to the islands of France where these waves are a common occurrence. These waves are formed by waves from one weather system that continues even if the wind direction changes and creates different waves. Waves like these have massive force behind them and for ships these are dangerous as it can lift the ship up and drop the ship down hard, which causes hull damage.
How does the tides affect the waves/currents?
Tidal currents occur in conjunction with the fall and the rise of the tide. The vertical motion of the tides near the shore creates horizontal water movement that turns into currents. Low tide creates small waves that has a lot of power seeing they are closer to the bottom, creating a stronger undertow. High tide however creates bigger waves with a pushing force. This makes it easy for sea life to enter/ exit the tidal pools.
Can currents be difficult to get out of?
Rip currents are one of the most difficult to get out of… BUT it can be done. Let us first explain what a rip current is, this particular current is formed close to beaches with breaking waves. A rip current cannot pull you underwater, it merely moves you away from the waves and into the direction of the open ocean. Currents like these form because of wind and breaking waves that push surface water towards land but creates a “River” going out to sea in between them. Waves that are breaking on shore feeds the current and thus creates the river.
How do you get out of the Rip Current?
The most popular question about currents will be how to get out from them, this however differs from currents. In the rip current you DO Not want to swim against the current back to shore, rather stay calm and keep yourself afloat, let the current push you past the breaking waves and into calmer waters, then swim parallel to the shore back towards the beach.